Getting your soap out of the mold should not be difficult but sometimes it is! Here are some helpful hints.

1. Once your soap has set (won't jiggle if moved) put it in the refrigerator or freezer (don't leave your CLEAR soaps in the freezer any longer than 15 minutes or you will risk them getting cloudy and sweaty.)

2. After 15-20 minutes in the refrigerator or freezer take the tray out and feel the soap. Is it warm or cold to the touch? If it's still even luke warm put the tray right back in. Wait until it feels cool. The plastic will feel cold way before the soap does. It is worth the wait.

3. Once it's cold and you've taken it out BE PATIENT. Wait another 5 minutes to allow condensation to take place -- putting tiny droplets of water between your soap and the plastic.

4. After 5 minutes apply EVEN PRESSURE in the CENTER of the mold you are trying to remove. EVEN PRESSURE right in the MIDDLE. You will notice an air bubble moving throughout the soap. Once the air bubble forms completely your soap will POP out.

5. Why do you have to go through this? Soap tends to be a tad sticky. When it's warm it seems to glue itself to the plastic. The combination of being cold and condensation seem to always work! WARNING. Keeping the tray in the freezer for too long could make your soaps cloudy so . . . try the refrigerator method first.

Molds that are EASY to demold are SILICONE molds. They are made of soft, flexible rubber they pop right out. More expensive but longer lasting, hold more detail and great on those arthritic hands.

Tip #2 Getting Dark Colors in Glycerin Soap

In general there are two types of glyceirn soap bases. Clear and opaque. The opaque, white soap is made by using clear soap and adding titanium dioxide. The is a white colorant used extensively in the soap and food industry. Use enough and it will color your soap completely white.

In my classes I notice that students want to take the white soap base and add dark colors expecting the outcome to be a dark soap.

Well, that just doesn't happen -- unless you use lots of colorant. Think about it. White is the lightest color as you can get. Adding a dark color to white gives you a PASTEL.

So, if you're looking for lavender you're in luck. Take white and add purple (or blue and red) to your white base.

Add a little at first and then stir. Keep adding and stirring until you reach your desired color

Now for dark colors, you guessed it, start with the clear base. Usually just a little of the liquid colorant is enough to give you a dark color.

Tip #3 Saving Money with Powders

The liquid colorants that we all love to use are made by adding powders to the liquids. It's much easier to buy the liquid colorants, but it is more expensive. A great way to save money is to use the powders. Here is what you do. Get a small tube with a cover. (These can usually be found in the craft shops). Add some powder to the tube (for example brown oxide, black oxide, titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxide, etc).

How much? Start with a tablespoon. You may have to use a funnel (Also available at your local craft store or dollar store). Now add liquid glycerin to the tube about half way. Why half way? So you can shake it effectively. Why liquid glycerin -- because it's a natural ingredient to your glycerin soap! The glycerin is thick so you will have to shake it up good to dissolve the powder. (You can buy it at your local pharmacy). Once you shake it up, it's ready to use in your soap base. Like all colorants try just a little at a time.

It will always depend on how concentrated the liquid is -- as to how much colorant you will need to use.

Tip #4 Layers

Put rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle. Spirtz between layers to help them bond better. It works!